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HOW TO INSTALL A SLIDING WARDROBE Click here for a printable version of this page. FINISHED APERTURE WIDTH (MAX 5000mm) This is the width that the doors will fit after any framework has been installed. This measurement can be actual or predicted. In our example the overall wardrobe width is 2800mm, so the doors would be made to fit 2764mm.... that is 2800mm less the thickness of the wall strip (18mm) and the thickness of the End panel (18mm). If the wardrobe was being fitted wall to wall, then the finished aperture width would be the measurement wall to wall less the thickness of two wall strips 36mm. What you need to order: FINISHED APERTURE HEIGHT (MAX 2480mm) This is the height that the doors (and tracks) will fit after any framework has been installed. This measurement can be actual or predicted. In our example, the overall floor to ceiling height is 2400mm so the doors and tracks will be made to fit 2364mm that is 2400mm less the thickness of the top and bottom track battens (less 36mm in total). FINISHED APERTURE HEIGHT CONTINUED (tips on measuring) It is important to specify the correct height when ordering.....measure in three places, as shown in (fig 1)that is about 300mm in from each end and in the centre, all at about 600mm from the back wall. The measurement we will work from when making the doors is the lowest of the three, which will enable the top or/and bottom track batten to be packed out level. The idea is to make the opening as square as possible, so that the doors will work properly within their minimum/maximum adjustment. FITTING A FLAT WALL STRIP First of all decide the overall depth of the wardrobe, which is normally between 610mm (minimum) and 660mm (optimum). Next, mark a vertical line on the skirting at the required overall depth and another to show the width of the wall strip. Drill a series of 4/5mm holes along the lines, and finish by sawing down the drilled lines with a tenon or floorboard saw and remove the piece. The drill holes are not essential but make the skirting much easier to saw! The wall strip should be fixed level. Wall strips are supplied at 2620mm tall x 100mm wide and 18mm thick. The wall strip at 18mm thick, should be as thick, or thicker than the skirting....if it is not then a 4mm thick spacer can be added or 2 if needed so that it sits slightly proud of the skirting. Two x 75mm wide 4mm thick hardboard spacers are supplied with each wall strip. If one or both need to be fitted, set them back from the front edge so that they are in shadow, and not directly visible. Finally, face fix the wall strip to the wall with the screws, plugs and caps supplied. The wall strip should be fixed level. What you need to order: FITTING AN END PANEL Standard end panels are supplied at 2620mm high x 660mm deep x 18mm thick edged 2 sides only. XL end panels are supplied 2620mm high x 1070mm deep x 18mm thick and are edged on no sides. Cut the panel to the required height and depth, and follow the instructions for slotting skirting, and cornice if fitted, and fix the aluminium "U" channel (if one is being used) to the wall, floor and ceiling as shown in (fig 4). The "U" channel, which is not supplied with the end panel, can be cut to size using a fine tooth hacksaw. What you need to order: FITTING TRACK BATTENS Having fitted the wall strip(s) and end panel (if used), cut the top and bottom track battens to size, and screw down, leveling the floor batten by packing out underneath where necessary. Track battens are 2620mm long and come in light, medium and dark wood effect plus white. What you need to order: FITTING TRACKS Tracks are usually supplied cut to size, if not, they can be cut quite easily with a fine tooth hacksaw. The top track should be fixed towards the ends, and generally at around 600mm intervals. Fit the front of the track flush with the front edge of the track batten and wall strip/end panel. The floor track can be fixed down with screws. However, do not fix the floor track until the doors are fitted.. ..see (fig 5). Tracks are included automatically when you order the doors FITTING DOORS Fitting the back door(s) first, hold the door at approximately 30 degrees, locate the top of the door in to the back channel (this is easier with two people) and slowly swing the door in to the vertical, and locate the bottom wheels in to the back slot of the floor track and snap the plastic anti-jump legs, on the bottom wheels, in to the track. Repeat this process for all doors. With all doors fitted and anti-jump legs engaged, use a level and manouver doors and tracks together until vertical. The track can now be fixed down....3 screws will be sufficient. An adjuster screw can be found on each bottom wheel, and can be used to move the door up or down in the aperture by approximately 25mm or, by adjusting one wheel up or down independently, the door can be made to fit a leaning wall or uneven floor (see fig 6). Adjust the wheels with a 2 point pozi or flat type screw driver or bit. BOTTOM WHEEL ADJUSTMENT There will be approximately 12.5mm of adjusment up or down from the factory set position on the bottom wheels, that is 25mm overall. This adjustment can be used to raise or lower a door or, to adjust a door in to a leaning wall. Once adjusted, doors should be closed in to their home or (adjusted) position and not on to the other side, where they may not fit....unless the bottom and sides or dead level, and doors are adjusted level DEALING WITH A CORNICE Where a cornice is involved, it can be bridged by using an intermediate panel, end on to the wall, and secured in an aluminium channel. Having decided the overall wardrobe depth, minimum 610m m and optimum 660mm, scribe two lines the thickness of the aluminium channel (25mm) and cut the section out using a craft knife or small saw. Follow (fig 7) for skirting cut out, but remove a 25mm section rather than 100mm. Screw the channel to the wall. The width of the Intermediate panel can either be cut down or, it can be used at its full width of 250mm. Next, cut the height to fit between floor and ceiling and insert into the channel, level, and then fix with an 18mm long screw (supplied) by drilling through the side wall of the channel and screwing through in to the panel (from the back). Lastly, use a wall strip as the return face as in (fig 7). Cut the strip to fit between floor and ceiling and fix to the face of the intermediate panel.....this is best achieved by screwing a batten to the back of the return face, and screwing through the batten in to the intermediate panel (see fig 8). The aluminium channel needs to be ordered separately and can be found in the framing section (click) PLEASE NOTE as an alternative to cutting the skirting and or cornice, particularly in older properties where these features might be protected, the wall strip can be scribed around the skirting or cornice rather than cut in. What you need to order: INTERMEDIATE PANEL Used as base for L.V. lighting (Fig 9) shows an intermediate panel used instead of a top track batten to extend out in front of the top track as a pelmet to fix low voltage lights to. The secret is to leave a 4mm gap between the top of the panel and the ceiling so that the wires can be threaded through the back of the track to the transformer. Hardboard can be used as the spacer. What you need to order: 1 Intermediate Panel View from side of the wardrobe INTERMEDIATE PANEL Used to extend the wardrobe depth As the recommended minimum depth for a sliding wardrobe is 610mm, some- times an extra piece of framework is necessary to extend the depth around a window, for example, as in (fig 10). Use the same fitting methods as explained for "dealing with a cornice" What you need to order: View from Above the wardrobe

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